Looks 23 to 35 were structurally more akin to a techno breakdown than a pogo-perfect punk period. Next came a screeching U-turn into elegant formality via all-white looks that topped shrunken menswear tailoring above flowing high-waist pants.įollowing a four-look recap interlude that stuck to that silhouette, he switched again into three cocoon-shoulder minidresses, the final shaggy black one in a heart-shaped silhouette intersected by a foot-long safety pin. These were teamed with the fearsome sea-urchin necklaces and bracelets that reappeared later, which, Takahashi said, “are made of brass and quite sharp, so you need to take care when wearing them.” A four-look blast of semi-archival glamour punk followed, complete with (unripped) fishnets, fitted minidresses in colored leather (at least to the eye), safety-razor belts, and two perfect, possibly intarsia, shearling shrug coats patterned with scarlet blooms and more razors. The intro group was the longest, an establishing tempo of dark wool dresses whose shapes were defined and delineated by golden zippers in arcing, body-tracing contours. Quiet, elegant, and formal pieces are interspersed with a punk rebel spirit and thoughts of peace.” Takahashi, who once played in the tribute band the Tokyo Sex Pistols, arranged his collection into groups of looks that were released in concentrated bursts. “The collection expresses the cold, rebellious fire smoldering deep within us. When the mail came in, Takahashi explained why the collection is entitled Cold Flame. Comparing the shows side by side, the fire ignited 20 years ago (next season) appears undimmed. While waiting for the overnight replies to a few postshow questions after this Tokyo-shown collection, some Jun scrolling unearthed footage of his first Paris show, spring 2003’s Scab. Below, our guide to the top streetwear labels, the ones with the greatest influence that go beyond the hype.Pomp and punk, beauty and bile, fashion and fury-nobody in the global diaspora of runway performance teases out the adjacencies, subtexts, and overlaps that lurk within these aesthetic dialectics like Jun Takahashi. The are now many players in the field, but there are also leaders, key brands that define and characterize luxury streetwear.
Amidst all the market power and all the noise, however, there are genuine creatives that continue to push the scene, with emerging brands-from Tbilisi to Los Angeles to Kyoto to Lisbon and beyond-exploring and transgressing streetwear language each year.
And the statement sneaker has taken over every house. Balenciaga is without a doubt a streetwear label, grounded in club culture, dark irony and Georgian irreverence. The late Virgil Abloh brought his post-streetwear, reference-heavy aesthetic to Louis Vuitton. Jun Takahashi’s Undercover is a continually substantive fixture at Paris Fashion Week. James Jebbia’s Supreme has collaborated with Burberry and Louis Vuitton, and has become the most valuable brand in the luxury resale market. Today, a space that was long considered lesser-than now leads the dialogue in the luxury world. But here are a few visible signs of hype and utter obsession: blocks of kids camping out on Spring Street for Supreme’s latest drop riots outside Virgil Abloh’s early Off-White shows collections from Nigo’s A Bathing Ape selling out almost instantly, satisfying only 10 percent of his consumer base. What were the defining moments that brought this subcultural movement to the forefront? What made streetwear so impactful in the luxury fashion world? It’s hard to nail down a single instance or even a series. Robb Recommends: Why These Belgian-Style Loafers Are the Perfect Summer Shoe Here’s a Unique Father’s Day Idea for the Dad Who Loves Watches and Whiskyīespoke Tailor Cifonelli Teamed Up With Le Mans for a Menswear Collab You Can Wear All Year
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